If you’ve watched Wolf Hall: The Mirror and the Light, you probably already know how stunning the costumes are – but now the Emmys have made it official. The series is nominated for Outstanding Period Costumes at this year’s Primetime Emmy Awards that will be broadcast on Sunday, September 14th at 8:00 PM EST on CBS. Joanna Eatwell (Costume Designer), Havva Buckles (Costume Supervisor) and Clare Vyse (Assistant Costume Designer) are being recognized for their spectacular work in the series, and particularly the episode “Wreckage”.
The costumes in this series are more than just historically accurate—they’re powerful, full of character, and absolutely gorgeous. We have already gushed about them in our “Best of Wolf Hall” posts, but this nomination gave us the perfect excuse to revisit our top five favorite looks from the series.
Lady Trader
Episode 5: Mirror – King Henry VIII
As with Queen Jane in Episode 3 Defiance, I’m always going to pick a purple outfit as my favorite of the episode. This outfit is so detailed, so rich, just so SO! Only royalty could wear purple due to the sumptuary laws, and this is as royal as you can get.
Episode 4: Jenneke – King Henry VIII
When Queen Jane dies, there are no ladies at Court, so this week’s Best Dressed goes to the King. This white outfit was just superb. I really wish we would have seen Henry standing in this outfit, as I know it is probably even more impressive seeing it in full length.
Episode 3: Defiance – Queen Jane Seymour
I am going to pick a purple anything as my favorite, so this gorgeous gown was a no-brainer for me to pick as my best look the episode. Only royalty were allowed to wear the color purple during Tudor times. This restriction was part of the sumptuary laws, which dictated what people could wear based on their social status, so to this I say – Yass Queen!
Episode 1: Wreckage – Lady Mary
Let’s face it – every costume in this series is brilliant. Such detail, such opulence, such beauty. Picking one costume for a “best of” is not an easy task each episode. But, this week I went with the Lady Mary’s red and black gown that she wore when she is invited back to court and introduced to her new step mother, Jane. That red train was so beautiful!
Episode 2 : Obedience – King Henry VIII
Henry in his “Turkish” costume was all kinds of right, and all kinds of wrong at the same time. Henry loved to play dress up, so as outrageous as this may seem, it certainly is very plausible that Henry wore something exactly like this. Again, the attention to detail and the richness of the design and fabric are just outstanding.
Damianista
Episode 1: Wreckage – Henry VIII and Queen Jane Seymour as the Sun and the Moon
From an interview with Kate Phillips, who portrays Jane Seymour in Wolf Hall, that says it all:
“I think I forget what I look like sometimes – today I’m dressed as a sweetie and Damian is dressed as a Christmas decoration! The sun was shining through the window today, and it just hit both of us and I think everyone was blinded by the reflection of our clothes. I’m the Moon and he is the Sun. Jane wasn’t frightened of dressing or looking good and I think that goes against what people expect of her too.”
I am sure the actors had a ball on set playing dress-up!
Henry VIII’s gold costume and Queen Jane Seymour’s silver costume draw inspiration from Tudor-era portraits where their colors symbolize their relationship. Gold represents Henry’s royal power, while silver symbolizes Jane’s perceived purity and complementary role as “the moon” to his “sun”.
Episode 2: Obedience – Henry VIII’s Ottoman Turban
Well, our prince, certainly not like any other man, carries the royal Ottoman turban in style! I wonder if Henry is jealous of the Ottoman Sultan who can marry as many women as his heart desires. Should he have been an Ottoman Sultan, Henry would not have had to divorce Catherine or behead Anne. He would have married those two and Jane, and also anyone else he wanted from the Imperial Harem and had too many sons to count. Suleiman the Magnificent, who ruled the Ottoman Empire at the same time Henry ruled England, had at least eight sons five of whom grew up to be adults.
Episode 2: Obedience / Episode 3: Defiance – Queen Jane Seymour’s Red Velvet Dress
We first see this absolutely stunning red velvet dress partially in Episode 2 Obedience and then it’s on full view in Episode 3 Defiance.
Queen Jane is wearing a stunning red velvet dress with a square neckline decorated with jewels. Her pendant is an exquisite replica of the real brooch the Queen wore representing her Christian faith (IHS, the first three letters of the Greek name of Jesus). The whole ensemble is based on the Hans Holbein The Younger’s painting of the Queen on display at the National Portrait Gallery in London. I just love how rigorously the costume design team studied the portraits of Holbein to provide the most authentic wardrobe for the cast.
Episode 4: Jenneke – Jenneke’s Antwerp Attire
The dress Joanna Eatwell made for Cromwell’s fictional daughter Jenneke is simply beautiful. My take away is that 16th century Antwerp women’s fashion was quite different from that in England.
Here is the making of the dress from Eatwell’s Instagram.
Eatwell talks at length about the partlet as her favorite part of Jenneke’s attire.
“I love what we call the partlet. It’s a garment that [Cromwell’s daughter] Jenneke wears. A partlet, which is this little shoulder cape affair. Black and fur lined. Women wore that at this time across countries, it’s not just from Jenneke’s country and culture. It’s used in the English court as well. And I think it’s a dear little item of clothing, the partlet, just to keep your shoulders and your chest warm.”
Episode 5: Mirror – Henry VIII’s Purple Gown
Henry’s purple gown is magnificent. And during his reign, only the royal family had the authority to wear the color! We see in the final episode how wearing overly regal ‘doublet of purple satin’ becomes a major headache for Cromwell!
Here’s Joanna telling Tatler about how she has dressed Henry in Wolf Hall: The Mirror and The Light.
“He has to be the top of the pyramid. Eyes have to go to the king. It’s the lushness of cloth, the richness and scale. His breadth – he’s just larger than anybody else.”
And, believe it or not, even the kings have costume fittings!
Here is Joanna Eatwell, the costume designer for Wolf Hall: The Mirror and The Light, talking about working with Damian:
“I have to say, Damian is wonderful to work with. There isn’t an actor on this show who hasn’t enjoyed putting on the costumes. It’s such fun, it really is. But Damian, he inhabits the costume.”
Well, he really does.
Gingersnap
All the costumes in Wolf Hall: The Mirror and the Light are simply stunning, so it’s hard to choose! Alas, here are my top five costumes from the series.
Episode 1: Wreckage – The bride and groom
I hear wedding bells! Tudor Fashion House is all about wealth and status, all spoken through intricate fabric and color choices. Jane Seymour’s wedding ensemble of lush silver and gold silk, though weighty, screamed luxurious. The finely woven ornate brocade pattern and voluminous draped arms was elegantly accompanied by her simple pearl necklace and hairpiece. Simply divine.
Henry ain’t too shabby, either! His ensemble looks expensive and sumptuous. Only the wealthiest can display a collar made of ermine. His doublet is entirely woven of a gold fabric damask weave with voluminous puffed sleeves and gold hose to match. Gotta keep those legs warm in a cold castle! Topping off the garment is Henry’s Chain of Office necklace. And that black hat? Well…he wears it again at his next wedding!
Episode 2: Obedience – Henry in his Turkish costume
The masquerade dance at Court is lively and full of energy with a sense of mystery and excitement, as all the dancers wear beautiful golden masks while the guests try to determine who is who. Sign me up for that party.
Episode 3: Defiance – Queen Jane Seymour
Jane wore a stunning gown of vibrant purple-violet and gilded gold to the sip-n-see gathering at Chester Place, the Seymour family’s London residence. Purple can signify royalty and spirituality and gold is often associated with wealth, luxury, and power. No doubt she wanted to look her best to welcome Nan and her brother Edward’s newborn baby to the family, but she was glowing for other reasons 😉
Episode 5: Mirror – Anne of Cleves
Hats off to costume designer Joanna Eatwell for this divine creation who famously said, “it all starts with a swatch.” Anne’s headdress is called a stickelchen cap, also referred to as the cleves hat. It is typically made of silk and adorned with pearls, gemstones, and other embellishments. Eatwell designed the cap and commissioned milliners Dean Burke Hats to make it from antique metal fabric, metal braid, and gold metal and silk organza.
The back of Anne’s wedding gown is full of cartridge pleats that are hand-sewn fabric folds made from two or more rows of uniform basting stitches. This historical technique is different from gathering in that it creates a more even, controlled fullness. Gathering produces a more relaxed, uneven look.
The Enchanted Tudor Rose handcrafted Anne’s necklace. She enameled vintage stainless steel discs, each with a Tudor quatre foil gold center with black, pearl, or red embellishment. The five pieces are set on a beaded chain designed to sit high on the neck. The piece is topped off with a filigree cross with black crystal detail.
Watch necklace reel here.
Eatwell’s gown and cap interpretation and Enchanted Tudor Rose’s replica necklace is inspired by Anne’s 1539 portrait by Hans Holbein the Younger, which now hangs in the Louvre Museum, Paris.
Episode 5: Mirror – King Henry VIII
Henry’s wedding ensemble is just as lovely. His doublet is made of beautifully embroidered and woven damask-patterned fabric that is accessorized by a black fur collar and topped off with a familiar black hat that is embellished with white feathers. Spoiler alert – it’s the same black hat he wore at his wedding to Jane Seymour.
It’s no surprise Wolf Hall: The Mirror and the Light landed an Emmy nod for costume design—these outfits do so much more than dress these characters. They help tell the story and set the mood of the scene. Our top five picks aren’t just about style (though they’ve got plenty of that); they’re about how clothing becomes part of the drama. Fingers crossed for a win—this nomination is already a well-deserved spotlight.
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