Step inside the Tudor Dynasty with us as we handpick our favorite superlatives for each episode of Wolf Hall: The Mirror and the Light – from ‘who wore it best’ fashionable costume and top villain, to outstanding scene and perfect cinematography – and everything else in between! Up this week:
Episode 5: Mirror
USA Air Date: Sunday, April 20, 2025
Plot Summary: Cromwell’s marital diplomacy brings Princess Anne of Cleves to Henry’s Court. Will the alliance create a Protestant superpower in northern Europe, or has Cromwell’s luck run out?
Gingersnap
Who Wore It Best – Anne of Cleves
Hats off to costume designer Joanna Eatwell for this divine creation who famously said, “it all starts with a swatch.” Anne’s headdress is called a stickelchen cap, also referred to as the cleves hat. It is typically made of silk and adorned with pearls, gemstones, and other embellishments. Eatwell designed the cap and commissioned milliners Dean Burke Hats to make it from antique metal fabric, metal braid, and gold metal and silk organza.
The back of Anne’s wedding gown is full of cartridge pleats that are hand-sewn fabric folds made from two or more rows of uniform basting stitches. This historical technique is different from gathering in that it creates a more even, controlled fullness. Gathering produces a more relaxed, uneven look.
The Enchanted Tudor Rose handcrafted Anne’s necklace. She enameled vintage stainless steel discs, each with a Tudor quatre foil gold center with black, pearl, or red embellishment. The five pieces are set on a beaded chain designed to sit high on the neck. The piece is topped off with a filigree cross with black crystal detail.
Watch necklace reel here.
Eatwell’s gown and cap interpretation and Enchanted Tudor Rose’s replica necklace is inspired by Anne’s 1539 portrait by Hans Holbein the Younger, which now hangs in the Louvre Museum, Paris.
Best Flea Market Buddy – The Bridegroom King Henry VIII
What a bargain hunter. Henry can rummage for vintage clothing like no other. I’d take him to the flea market with me, just for the finds! I saw some comments on social media where fans are calling it Henry’s Cosplay Closet, and I absolutely love that! LOL
First Catfished Couple of Record – King Henry VIII and Anne of Cleves
I mean, sending a Court painter to create your potential fiancé’s portrait is the 16th century version of today’s dating apps with old profile pics! Although Hans Holbein the Younger’s portrait of Anne was true to life, Henry felt catfished, voicing his dissatisfaction with her appearance. No doubt Anne felt catfished as well; she does not recognize an older, obese, physically limited Henry and recoils from him upon their first meeting. You just never get a second chance to make a first impression.
Chief Scapegoat – Thomas Cromwell
Crumb’s luck has run out at Court. Many have been working against him without his knowledge and it appears conversations have taken place behind his back. Such as Norfolk resuscitating the rumor that Cromwell has designs on Mary or Gardiner pointing out how closely Cromwell’s beliefs skirt Lutheranism and Fitzwilliam, desperate for anything that might convince Henry it’s not his fault the new Queen displeases him, throwing his so-called friend under the bus. Henry’s public humiliation about his marriage to Anne of Cleves is Cromwell’s eventual downfall.
At the meeting of the King’s Council, Cromwell sits but no one else does. Fitzwiliam states, “We don’t sit with traitors!” Cromwell leaps to his feet and begins fighting off the councillors as they descend. Then Fitzwilliam rips the Chain of Office from Cromwell’s neck just as Cromwell once did to him. Having been elevated to status of Earl not a month or two before, now all of Cromwell’s titles have been stripped. The Constable of the Tower of London appears and escorts Cromwell to his doom.
Lady Trader
Who Wore It Best – King Henry
As with Queen Jane in Episode 3 Defiance, I’m always going to pick a purple outfit as my favorite of the week. This outfit is so detailed, so rich, just so SO! Only royalty could wear purple due to the sumptuary laws, and this is as royal as you can get.
The King’s Own Story Box – King Henry
Growing up in the 1970’s in New York, there was a children’s show called The Magic Garden. The hosts, Paula and Carole had a trunk they called the Story Box. They would pull out costumes and play out a story and it is the first thing I thought of when I saw Henry going through his trucks of costumes. I loved Story Box, and it looks like Henry would have loved it too.
Magnificent Tapestry – In King Henry’s Privy Chamber
The tapestry that was hanging in Henry’s Privy Chamber was magnificent! Of course Henry would have a huge tapestry of a knight in shining armor riding a white stallion! Henry always thought of himself as the most chivalrous of Kings. But how chivalrous is it to speak so poorly and so publicly about Anne of Cleves? That is rather boorish in my book.
Damianista
Who Wore It Best – Henry VIII
Henry’s purple gown is simply magnificent. And during his reign, only the royal family had the authority to wear the color! Keep watching to see how wearing overly regal ‘doublet of purple satin’ becomes a major headache for Thomas Cromwell.
Here’s Joanna Eatwell, whom I call the goddess of costume design, telling Tatler about how she has dressed Henry in Wolf Hall: The Mirror and The Light.
“He has to be the top of the pyramid. Eyes have to go to the king. It’s the lushness of cloth, the richness and scale. His breadth – he’s just larger than anybody else.”
And, believe it or not, even the kings have costume fittings!
Kid in a Candy Store – Henry rummaging his treasure – costume – chests
Henry rummaging his treasure – costume – chests to find the right disguise in which to go surprise his new bride! A Russian nobleman with proper fur boots ? A shepherd maybe? Or one of the Magi? The possibilities are endless for Henry 🙂
Most Compelling Alternative History – Henry’s first meeting with Anne
Historical records tend to argue that Henry does not like the appearance of Anne of Cleves and asks for the annulment of their marriage. Wolf Hall: The Mirror and The Light gives us an alternative and, in my opinion, a more compelling story that we hear from Gregory who arrives at Austin Friars in the middle of the night to ask his father how on earth he let the king meet his new bride in disguise!
It turns out that the young woman has not recognized Henry and ignored him. Chances are, she has taken him as some old, fat man with a bad leg. And, when she has eventually realized who he is, says Gregory:
“As Christ is my saviour, father, the look in her eye… I will never forget it. Nor, I think, will the King. She recoiled from him.
Yikes!
ps. I would have loved to see the terror in Anne’s eyes when she meets the king! But it is Gregory that narrates the story to Cromwell in the book as well.
Henry certainly steals this episode!